Santiago de Compostela

 19 June

So we made it to our little apartment which is part of the old city, just 10 minutes stroll from the cathedral - we can ALMOST see it from our window! We googled good places to eat and headed into town, hoping that we'd get in somewhere as it was early... but the town is full of tourists and pilgrims and tourist pilgrims!  A lot of them are Spanish too!  We went to one place that was highly rated but they couldn't fit us in until 10.15!  Gasp.  We found another cafe and rebooked the first one for tomorrow night.   We ordered the Padron Peppers - they are so delicious.  The Galicia pie, which is made with the dried cod (bacalao) - it was OK but I don't feel we need to try it again.  We also had calamari and chips!  Washed down with wine and beer.  And we were in bed before our 10.15 previous booking!

20 June

Happy Birthday Fiona!  Our lovely sister in law/sister who will be visiting us soon in Darwin!

Today we took the train from Santiago de Compostela to Ourense to meet up with Greg's mate Gill - Gill had worked for the EDO in Darwin.  She has been living in a small village near Ourense since 2018 and we really wanted to catch up with her!  Gill met us at the train station and we drove into the city to collect her new specs, and on the way checked out the market and a bit of the town!

From  Ourense, Gill drove us to her tiny village on a very windy and narrow road.  I didn't even realise she was driving a right hand side drive car (doh), it seemed so natural to me!!  We reached her village and were first greeted by her very friendly dog, who was very fond of Greg!  The house is lovely and has a beautiful aspect over the valley and down toward the river.  It's so quiet and peaceful!  Gill has just bought the decrepit building that shares the wall of  her  kitchen - it took her a while to locate the owner, with help from her neighbours, and she has great plans to turn it into an office/outside entertainment area, with entry through the kitchen.  As she is in the process of getting some insulation done and cupboards changed (apparently the house is  pretty cold in winter!) it will free up the space to make the connection.  I look forward to seeing it all done!

Gill had made a booking for lunch at A cova, a nearby restaurant which also overlooks the valley and the river - we sat on the balcony and enjoyed the beautiful views and the cool breeze!  For lunch we had trout, calamari, chips, salad and partridge for Greg and Gill.  Served with the red wine they make in house for the restaurant.  You can buy a 15L cask for 30 euro!  A bargain, it was pretty good.  Although a lot of wine at lunch time makes you a little weary... especially with all the late nights (the Spanish eat REALLY late) and early mornings!  Gill took us for a drive after lunch and I  may have napped.  Just a little!  It was lovely to see her and also to see that she was so happy and feeling comfortable in her environment!

We took the train back to Santiago. We ate at A Noisea tonight.  There were so many delicious options on the menu!  First we had the pedron peppers again.  I just love them, and these ones were very good indeed. We opted to share the Young Gentleman's Rice, which had scallops, prawns, calamari, mussels and clams with rice and a tomato sauce - apparently Mel Gibson had enjoyed this meal so his name is now attached to it!  It really was delicious, as was the wine.  We decided to come back again the next night and eat more from their menu!  Greg was keen on a night cap (he loves his night caps!) so we had a drink near the cathedral, then walked to the cathedral.  Although it was nearly 10 pm it was still very light so I thought I could get some photos without the crowd, which was the case.  There was a big circle of young people, obviously sharing their feelings about being in such a holy place, quite a few were in tears, including the boys.  Greg thought we should walk some of the Camino: he's seen pilgrims every morning walking past our apartment.  We walked for about a kilometre, then turned around and came back again!  There were helpful footprints printed onto the footpath!

21 June

Today we had a Rias Baixas day tour.  I felt my heart sink a little when we turned up to this tour and it was a huge bus and a huge crowd, 90% Spanish speakers.  It wasn't as bad as I thought it might be but it wasn't great either.  Our tour guide spoke in Spanish and then in English - very, very quickly, as our lead foot driver was tail gating his way along the road and obviously as she got to the English bit we were way past the area she was telling us about!  She spoke English well but heavily accented, and with the speed of delivery it was hard to understand her.  

Our first stop was a view of the most beautiful beach in Galicia, Praia de Montalvo.  Just time for a few quick pics then back on the bus!  Then onto Isla de La Tola.  This island is full of hotels and apartments because of the special mud and spas on the island.  We were told how this special mud was found: a local man had a donkey with a very bad skin condition.  He tried everything  but eventually took the donkey to the island to die.  When he came back a month later he found the donkey is fine health with great skin!  The church on the island, the Ermita de San Sebastian, is completely covered by scallop shells.  The estuary that is between the mainland and the island is apparently full of shell fish, although when we saw the hundreds of people out there it was hard to imagine that it is a sustainable industry!  The soap that was made on the island is still sold there, but now it's made in Germany.  Then we went to the nearby port to board our boat for a one hour cruise.  They took a photo as we boarded.  Greg said we wouldn't be buying it.  I said I wanted it.  He said I could buy it for 5 euro.  They sold them for 10: so only double the number Greg was prepared to pay!  And it was done as a magazine front page, I loved it!

Back to the boat.  As soon as we boarded we were told we could be inside or outside.  I thought I'd get better photos outside.  We joined another Spanish couple - there were no free tables.  There was already a bottle of wine on the table,  it wasn't exactly cold but it was OK.  Greg immediately rested on the table: boat trips equal sleep for him!  He roused himself when the trays of mussels came out.  We managed to get through four trays!!  They were sweet and delicious.  Some people managed 5 trays!  The commentary started in Spanish and went on for some time.  About half way through the cruise the English commentary clicked in - I'm assuming someone said something!  We saw mussels, oysters and scallops being grown on ropes.   The water was quite clear and clean.  After the mussels the music started, and some of our group were up and dancing.  I couldn't convince Greg to join in!  He was however happy to try feeding the seagulls, which was very popular with the men on the top deck!

Back on land, we had nearly two hours for lunch.  Most of the water front places were very expensive. so we wandered into the city a little more and found an Indian Tapas Bar.  We thought Indian as in the sub continent, but it was American Indian.  Not noticeable in the food!  We had the set menu for 14.90 euro a head.  We thought it was two courses but it was three, we skipped the dessert!  

Back on the bus we both nodded off.  So when the tour bus stopped at Combarro we had no idea what was happening.  As we walked into the old city I saw what looked like mausoleums in people's yards.  Greg thought they were mini churches.  I had to confess to our guide that we'd fallen asleep and had no idea why we were there!  It turns out that the concrete structures were grain stores.  Much less macabre than family bodies!  However there must be something about witchcraft  about Combarro as there were witch figurines everywhere!  Our last stop was a winery, selling the Albarino young white wine common in Galicia.  We were given an English handout: the wine maker was not prepared to speak English.  Greg annoyed me by nodding and ah ha-ing while she was speaking, as if he could understand her rapid Spanish!  Eventually we got to try the wine.  It was not good.  We did get a laugh out if being called Bouze!!  Then back to Santiago de Compostela.

We enjoyed our second dinner at A Noiesa just as much as the previous night.  The staff all gave us a friendly welcome!  This time we had the scallops, clams and calamari with a tomato salad - all delicious yet again. Especially the scallops!

22 June

We started our day with a walking tour. Our Local Guru Guide, David, met us in the square in front of the cathedral. The Santiago de Compostela Cathedral is one of the most important religious structures in the whole of Spain, particularly because it marks the end of the 790 kilometres (490 miles) that make up the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage route.   He told us the story of  Saint Santiago (or St James in English), the warrior apostle who had his head cut off.  His body was taken by two of his disciples and they sailed away, landing in Padron, very near the current  cathedral site. Building of the cathedral started in 1075, but not much really happened until 1100 and work continued into the 12th century. We walked past a bag pipe player - there is a succession of players, there is music all day.  There was a bit of argy bargy between Greg & David over the origin of the bagpipes, as David is adamant that they originated in Galicia and were taken to Ireland and Scotland... Greg respectfully disagreed! Very close to the cathedral is the enormous monastery of St Martin - its over 20,000 square metres in size, but was not allowed to be taller than the cathedral! San Martín Pinario is the  Spanish name.  On the far side of the cathedral is the convent of St Clara.  Its a very austere looking building: we all guessed it was a prison.  It is a prison of sorts: the nuns inside take a vow to stay there for the rest of their lives.  Apparently there are about five nuns, in their 70s, still living there in total seclusion. 

The official entrance to the cathedral has an interesting collection of carvings in the front.  David asked what Medusa, the Sirens and witches had in common: yes, they are all women, and all evil.  He joked that it was well known that men are always perfect and pure, which was recognised in the middle ages, with all the baddies being women!

We walked along Franco street, which was named for the French pilgrims, not the dictator - it pre dates him!  We walked into the park to see the statue of the two brightly dressed women.  We'd wondered what the story was with them! The statue remembers two sisters,  Corelia and Maruxa Fandiño.  They were part of a liberal family and when their brothers escaped and went into hiding during the civil war, the two sisters were raped, beaten and tortured.  They were unable to work but the neighbours secretly supported them (secretly, because of Franco's team of spies).  Despite it all they continued to dress in bright colours (in a time where women were encouraged to wear black and grey) and always loved to tease university students.  They died in the 1980s, but they loved their 2pm stroll in the park so the statue celebrates that.  Back across the road, we walked down the streets and David explained why there were so many covered walkways: Santiago is renown for its rainy wet weather!  The ground floor of the old houses traditionally housed the families animals.  Now they are all shops!  We saw the Igrexa de Santa María Salomé, a church dedicated to Mary's mother!  You don't hear much about Jesus' grandparents do you?  David left us at the market.

The best thing about this market was the well set up little bar, with a sommelier to recommend wine by the glass!  You can then buy snacks at the market and enjoy them with your wine.  What a civilised idea!  We had already enjoyed an empanada while we wandered around, so Greg went off to buy half a dozen oysters to share.  It was lovely!  I've never enjoyed a market more!

We finally made it to the cathedral.  It was suitably impressive, with a huge famous Botafumeiro, a large censer which disperses incense amid the congregation. Weighing 53kg and measuring 1.5 m, it is one of the largest in the world and is suspended 20m  high above the crowd via a system of ropes and pulleys. On special occasions, and after some masses, the Botafuemeiro is released by team of eight tiraboleiros who swing it across the cathedral at great speeds of up to 68km per hour. It is thought that the tradition was started in order to cover up the smell of the thousands of pilgrims arriving at the cathedral after their exertions!  You can pay about 450 euro to have it swung, or wait for a special occasion!

We visited the Cathedral museum and I was happily snapping away until I was told off.  No photos!  We walked all through one side and then the other, but still did not see the Pórtico de la Gloria, which was included in our ticket.  And we had totally missed our start time of 2.45.  The staff were very helpful and moved us to the 3.45 slot and after being warned - in advance this time! - that no photos were allowed we went back into the second part of the museum and were led down some stairs to see it.  Plenty of security meant  there was no chance of getting a photo, so I'll have to get a photo off the internet. Master Mateo built this spectacular entrance to the cathedral in 1188.  This entrance was covered by a facade at some point and some of the carved figures were removed. Between 2008 and 2018 the portico was restored to some of its former glory. The carvings were cleaned of centuries of dust and dirt, moisture leaks were found and corrected, and repairs were made where necessary  Then the decision was made to only allow small groups to prevent any further deterioration - humidity from people breathing has been one of the issues!  So even though it's in the main part of the church, you can only see it at set times and in small groups.

That night we went for a wander before dinner (we had to wait until the restaurant opened at 8.45pm!).  I took this photo of the cathedral near our apartment.  It was nearly 8.30pm. I love daylight saving!

I'd chosen A Viaxe Restaurant, another one in the Michelin Guide.  We were on their doorstep at 8.46 and were the first diners - something we are used to in Spain.  The earliest the Spanish arrive is 9pm! This restaurant offers you a journey around the world, with the emphasis on Peruivan peppers and local Galician ingredients.  The waiter serving us was very apologetic about his poor English, which we assured him was so much better than our total lack of Spanish!  So some things were lost in translation!  There was a 6 course or 9 course set menu, of course we opted for the 9 courses!  We enjoyed them all except one, and we gave feedback to our poor waiter, who then had to tell the chef!  It was a very chilly walk home.  I had expected Spain to be much warmer at this time of year!