Bilbao

 18 June

We left a sunny Donostia early on Sunday morning for our bus to Bilbao.  It was a very comfortable bus, with leg room (!) and it was only just over an hour to Bilbao - we were still in Basque country!  I did love how the Basque always like to point out how very different they are to the Spanish.  Its true that the Basque language, Euskara, is completely different.  Carlton, our bike guide, said it looks like a collection of scrabble letters - its very random looking with lots of x's!  Apparently it is the oldest language in the world - pre dating Greek and Latin.  However in other ways they seem very similar to the Spanish.  Not that I would dare to say that to a Basque! Bilbao is an interesting mix of very, very new and old, especially where our hotel is located.  We enjoyed our walk both ways to the Guggenheim Museum.  There are lots of interesting  sculptures everywhere too. 

The Guggenheim is  the reason we came to Bilbao.  The building is really amazing  and there were crowds everywhere around it. A lot of people say that the best part of the Guggenheim is the building itself!  But where did we get in?  Greg was adamant that he didn't want to walk up any stairs.  We walked all  around the huge building.  And here is news for you:  the only way in is upstairs!  Thankfully, as everyone knows we are big fans of stairs!  Greg was starving so after checking in (we had to check in within 30 minutes of our 11.30 booking)  we went straight to the cafe.  In true Spanish - sorry Basque -style, it was only serving a limited range of pintxos, lunch was  not served until 12.30pm.  There was a restaurant next door which didn't open until 1pm.  Greg had a snack and we went off to walk through the museum.  There were some very interesting displays and I enjoyed it.  Back at 1pm on the dot, we tried the restaurant first - but no, they were "complete"- fully booked.  So back to the cafe.  I ordered the brie, tomato and avocado sandwich, which I envisioned on a crusty roll, but instead was a flat toasted sandwich with the worst bread I've had in Europe! 

If you are thinking my selfie game has improved you are right!  I lost the remote clicker thing for my selfie stick in Paris so have been doing it the old fashioned arm way, but I bought another one in San Sebastian and I'm so glad I did!!  We walked back to the hotel "following Greg's nose" ie the very long way, but made it back before it poured with rain.  Apparently there have been huge storms all over Europe causing havoc with air traffic.  

For dinner we took the recommendation of our second Donostia food guide, Jon, as it was a Sunday night and very little was open (as happens in heavily religious places!).  He suggested Perro Chico in the old town. Rather than walk, as it was still raining, we took the receptionists advice and took the tram.  Unfortunately, there was a covering over the windows to reduce the sun, and the rain drops were stuck in the fabric, so we had no view at all!!  However, we found the restaurant which luckily started serving at the ridiculously early hour of 7.30pm (how lucky!).  Interestingly their food style was Asian.  So we had pad thai without any noticeable chilli!  Then we walked to the main square to have a nightcap.  I finally had a gin that didn't break the bank.  All over Bilbao we noticed gay pride posters and flags - we thought of Ainslie and Maddy and sent them a photo, saying it was Gay Pride month in Bilbao.  Ainslie replied that it was gay pride month everywhere.... well it obviously was more subtle in the other places we've been this month!  I thought she might appreciate that we were thinking of them both! We took the metro back - the hotel is conveniently on top of both the bus station and the metro!

19 June

Happy 80th Birthday Dad!  We called Dad this morning before setting off on the metro to meet our bike guide. Our bike tour was billed as Óff the beaten track Seaside cycling tour'.  And it was just us on the tour!  I don't know where I got the idea that we had e-bikes again from, but I was wrong ... it was regular bikes with quite tough seats (our bums were still recovering from the ride in Donostia!)  Our guide promised us that there was only one tough uphill ride!  There were plenty of downhills though which meant, unfortunately, quite a few uphills... although, as promised, only one really tough one!  There were some bike paths but not as many as San Sebastian.  Ronaldo said we just had to ride in the middle of the road, like a car - and we did!  The drivers are so much more patient with bike riders here! We rode to the iconic Vizcaya Bridge, which is a world Heritage site.  It was blown up (by ETA, the Terrorist wing of the Basque) but was rebuilt and is in constant use.  Then we rode around the seaside (and every so slightly, up and up) to Puerto Viejo.  It could have been worse: Ronaldo took us up a very steep bit in an elevator!).  This old fishing village has been updated for tourists to wander through, and all the houses have their name and the date of when they were built on the side!  It was very charming.  Up our steep hill, where we were rewarded with a pintxos and a drink, although to be safe we both opted for water (I was tempted to have a wine!).   Shortly afterwards I was glad I didn't - I was going reasonably fast when Ronaldo executed a very sharp right hand turn.  I didn't think I'd make it, I managed to jam on the brakes and get my feet onto the ground rather than crashing... Greg was behind me and was amazed I made it!! We then rode up to the cliffs (yes, more uphill!  But I'm just mentioning it, not complaining!) to see the Biscay coast.  Ronaldo is a huge surfing fan so he and Greg discussed the merits of every beach surf break as we rode along!  There were some very impressive cliff side views (I tried not to feel too panicked as we stood on the edge of certain death!).  Then it was back, in a meandering way, to return our bikes.  We didn't have any euros to give Ronaldo a tip and I know he was pretty unimpressed... I did promise him a good review though!!

Then we took the metro back to our hotel, got changed, and took a bus out to the airport.  We arrived to an email saying our flight might be delayed.  The airport was heaving with people who hadn't been able to fly for the last few days.  There was no one at the check in counter for our flight!  Eventually, we saw there was one person, at the business class section.  We tentatively joined the small line and - no problem!  She checked us in and we were on our way.  When we got to the gate it was just like being in Asia - a huge crowd pressing in on one check in line.  We squeezed our way in and jumped on the bus to transfer to the aircraft.  Again, getting onto the plane was a free for all.  The rain was starting and no one wanted to get wet!  The roof of the plane was 2cm above my head - I know Spaniards are short but it was ridiculous!  We were in the over wing exit seats (good choice Cath as there was no leg room in the ordinary seats!) and the flight attendant was very officious about me not wearing my ear buds for take off and landing.  The card she gave us made us laugh though - look at the instructions!  There was no cabin service at all (it was only a one hour flight) however on landing everyone was instructed to remain SEATED until the row in front had gone.  And they enforced that with huge determination.  After the free for all leading up to it, to say we were surprised was an understatement!

We found the bus into town and got off at the bus station and took a taxi to our apartment.  Greg wants to preserve the wheels on his new suitcase!!