Bordeaux

 1 June

Our friend Jude collected us from the train station in the little car she had hired for our visit - from the supermarket no less!  Unfortunately her husband Les was still in Australia helping his elderly parents, his mum had broken her leg and as she was the carer for his dad, Les needed to go home and help them get sorted. We should have taken the tram - the traffic was terrible coming in and just as bad going back, but we enjoyed the drive along the Garonne River, looking at the fine buildings of Bordeaux - which looks a lot like Paris!  With only a population of 250,000, it's a lot smaller!  After dropping our bags at the apartment we headed off into the city for a wander and to find somewhere for dinner.  We settled on a little bistro opposite the Eglise Saint-Pierre church.  The little square was buzzing, as was the whole city.  We had a lovely meal with wine.  Afterwards we wandered along the quai enjoying the mild weather and our ice-creams!  We stopped into the wine bar Jude and Les love - we had a sauterne to finish the evening.  The bar just sells wine by the glass at very affordable prices.  Greg and I were blown away by Jude and Les's beautiful Bordeaux apartment!

2 June

We hired bikes from the street.  Jude and Les have an annual pass and we bought an additional day pass, so we could have three bikes for the day.  Our first stop was the Jardin Public which is just a few mintues cycle away from Jude and Les's place. The Jardin Public is not as formal as many French public spaces are, it was lovely and sprawling, right in the heart of the city! We continued into the city and along the riverside to the Pont Jacques Chaban Delmas.  This beautiful bridge is the highest lift bridge in Europe, and the big cruise liners can fit in underneath when the lift is activated.  Apparently it is lit up at night.  Fun fact, it also has a deceptively tough incline which you can feel in a bike with just three gears!! On the other side of the bridge was the Jardin Botanique.  The garden is divided into different sections; one for the soils and flora typical of the area; one is a beautiful water garden with gorgeous lilies; and apparently there is also an arboretum and glass houses but we didn't ride far enough around to see those! We admired the views over the river to the Place de la Bourse and Palais de la Bourse.  The Garonne river is  huge and moves very swiftly.

Then we cycled back towards the city over the Pont de Pierre, now a bridge for pedestrians, cyclists, buses and trams only.  It was the first bridge built over the Garonne River and was ordered by Napoleon 1.  Apparently the strong current and 6m tidal range made it challenging for the builders and it took over three years to complete, in 1822. The seventeen arches match the number of letters in Napoleon Bonaparte's name. Jude had the good idea that we would work up our appetite for lunch by climbing the Pey-Berland Tower.  Greg offered to mind the bikes and our bags - his hips are killing him from all the stairs we've been doing!  Despite the sign saying we had to book our visit on line, we were able to go right up.  Just 66m!  There are two terraces, and both offer stunning views of the city.  The free standing bell tower built in 1440 is adjacent to Saint Andre's cathedral.  There was concerns that if the bell tower was attached to the cathedral the weight could affect the church, as it was built on swampy ground.  Eleanor of Aquitaine and Louis VII were married there in 1137, and Anne of Austria and Louis XIII.

Everybody should turn 60 and travel half way around the world to be spoiled by friends!  Jude took Greg and I out for lunch at the Zephirine Auberge Urbaine - a new up and coming restaurant just up the road from Jude and Les's apartment. It had just had a write up in the Guardian newspaper saying it was on the verge of a Michelin star!  If our lunch was anything to go by - the food is spectacular.  You can chose to have entree and main, or main and dessert, or all three; initially we chose entree and main.  There were three shared entrees, the most exquisite being the poached asparagus with tarragon and served with a breathtakingly light hollandaise with a soft egg.  Wow.  Then I had the best risotto I've ever had.  Every mouthful was wonderful.  Jude had the fish and Greg had the veal and they both said their meals were delicious too.  We were much too full to even consider desert but the smooth talking waiter told us the story of the Zephirine,  a twist on the original pancakes made by the owners grandfather, served with fresh strawberries and a strawberry sorbet.  Too hard to say no too for Jude and I!    The pancake mix is now light as a feather balls and with the sorbet, which was amazing, it was a great finish to a special lunch.  We had a cremant with lunch and afterwards, we all agreed we needed a nap....!

After our little nap we hung around chatting until Jude pointed out it was 8pm already!  We headed out to get a drink and something small to nibble - we were still quite full from lunch!  First we walked to the remains of the Roman amphitheatre - the Palais Gallien,   Its sad to realise that most of it was demolished to make way for the expansion of Bordeaux!  

After taking some photos of the Girondins Column - an impressive column with a statue at the top representing freedom breaking out of his shackles - we stopped at the Nulle Part Ailleurs bar where we enjoyed some wine and tapas (beer for Greg).  We wandered back into the city still enjoying the warm night air and light of daylight saving.  We walked through the lovely Porte Dijeaux,  a historic gate built in the 1700s in the neo classical style.  It is lit up at night and looks  wonderful.  We had a last drink at a bar nearby and made our way home again!

3 June

After our little nap we hung around chatting until Jude pointed out it was 8pm already!  We headed out to get a drink and something small to nibble - we were still quite full from lunch!  First we walked to the remains of the Roman amphitheatre - the Palais Gallien,   Its sad to realise that most of it was demolished to make way for the expansion of Bordeaux!  

After taking some photos of the Girondins Column - an impressive column with a statue at the top representing freedom breaking out of his shackles - we stopped at the Nulle Part Ailleurs bar where we enjoyed some wine and tapas (beer for Greg).  We wandered back into the city still enjoying the warm night air and light of daylight saving.  We walked through the lovely Porte Dijeaux,  a historic gate built in the 1700s in the neo classical style.  It is lit up at night and looks  wonderful.  We had a last drink at a bar nearby and made our way home again!

We went from the markets to our lunch booking, at the nearby town of Branne.  Jude had eaten before on the terrace at La Caffe Cusine and thought we would enjoy it too.  Another day, another delicious lunch! Today I had monk fish, Jude had the cod, and Greg had steak.  Then Jude and I shared the dessert tasting plate.  Sharing it made us feel less like gluttons!

Jude had forgotten the name of the open garden she thought we'd visit.  This open garden program is only on this weekend annually, and as she knows how much Greg loves gardens, it was a great idea.  She found one nearby, at Naujan-et-Postiac - the Abbey dÁrpaillan.  When we drove up we were the only ones in the car park!  The chateau looked enchanting and was surrounded by beautiful, perfumed roses.  We wandered around the corner at the same time as a French couple who had just rocked up.  They were warmly greeted by another couple who were sitting on a table on the terrace.  We assumed they had arranged to meet up, but no - the couple on the terrace rushed up to us to explain (in French only) that it was a guided tour, for 5 euro per person.  More people turned up -somehow we had managed to get the time right for the tour.  The woman leading the tour promised to speak slowly, but in her excitement and passion for the garden completely forgot that and talked flat out as she led us around.  Jude did her best but it was overwhelming.  I could pick up the odd word here or there... but really it just made me realise how tough the two weeks Jude had spent in French immersion must have been!!  The garden was beautiful and we got the impression that she was one, if not the, gardener for the chateau.  However after about an hour we decided it was time to move onto our next appointment, so Jude was tasked with making our apologies!  Our next appointment was... heading back to Bordeaux, to water a friend's plants and check on her cat, then back to the apartment in time for an apero.!

4 June

Happy Birthday Hayley!  Our beautiful grand daughter is 5 today!  We couldn't ring this morning as Hayley was exhausted from a big day and was having a rest!  So we set off to go to the markets - Greg wanted to buy some fresh cod for dinner tonight.  We were going to go on the bikes, but Jude had issues recharging Les's bike card (the one I was using!) so we opted for the tram.  We got off near the Basilica Sainte Michel and walked through the flea market that is held there every Sunday.  Greg was in heaven.  He found various things that took his fancy but eventually could not resist an antique hammer that he is sure Liam will adore.  I hope he is right!  Then onto the food market which had lot of options.  We found some delicious fresh cod (28 euro a kilo, thank you very much!) and asked for the fishmonger to add some ice to the freezer bag we had with us.  Greg would happily have lingered longer but we had things to do and places to be!  And we had the chance to quickly call Hayley and wish her a Happy Birthday.  We both sung, although Hayley was quick to point out that Crusty had not sung all the words of both birthday songs!  He said he was providing harmony...!

From the market we walked through the quiet and empty streets of Bordeaux on a Sunday!  It was delightful!  We made our way to the Opéra National de Bordeaux - Grand-Théâtre to see a Quatuor Prométhée: two violins, a viola and a cello, performing works from Schumann and Beethoven. They were very skillful musicians and we enjoyed the performance, which was just an hour, but the main reason Jude had bought us tickets was so we could experience the beautiful theatre, which has been refurbished and looks magnificent.  There is a severe shortage of leg room though,  we all had to sit with our legs at an angle to fit in!

Jude took us to her favourite  salon de Thé for lunch/afternoon tea - Greg and I opted for lunch, Jude just went for tea and the carrot cake!  I had the formula - a pumpkin quiche with salad (it was huge and very tasty).  This means I also got dessert: I chose cheesecake.  The base was a bit blah but the cheesecake bit was good!  Greg had fish and chips  - his fish was OK but the chips were soggy.  However overall the style and ambiance was lovely!

As we walked toward the supermarket for Greg to get the last few things for his dinner tonight (which turned out to be closed!) we passed the Galerie des Beaux-Arts, which was free today (the first Sunday of the month), so we popped in to see what was on. On the first floor was the first large scale exhibition of artist Denis Monfleur - Peuples de pierre.  Apparently he is self taught which is impressive!  He uses a lot of volcanic rock in his carvings.  Upstairs was a "Works to Touch" exhibition.  We were offered a blind fold, which Jude and I accepted.  One person had to be the guide - which was Greg.  The idea was that you use your sense of touch to discover the statues.  It was certainly interesting and a lot of fun!  Eventually Greg had a go too!

While Greg was busy preparing dinner, Jude and I went for a bike ride to see a few places we had missed.  There is less car traffic on Sundays but the foot and push bike traffic had lifted considerably!  We rode down to the Place de la Bourse, where I took photos of the Fountain of the three Graces (apparently the nudity of the royal nymphs offended the prudish 19th century middle classes!). We crossed the road and I was able to get a shot of the Place de la Bourse with the reflection of the water mirror, "Miroir déau".   Then we cycled down to the Cailhau Gate, which was built in 1495 to commemorate the conquest of Naples and the victory at Fornova in which the nobility of Bordeaux (and their minions, I presume!) played a part.  From a distance it looks like part of a grand chateau!  Then past the old archives, to admire the profuse hyacinth that grows over the awning, and onto the Hotel De Ville.  Sadly in March when the riots were on, someone thought it was a good idea to burn down the famous and apparently beautiful, carved oak doors.  The sign up next to the doors says that they are irreparable which is very sad.  Lastly we went to the Aquitaine Gate, built in 1753.  Behind it is a decorative column and two turtles, for reasons unknown.  I patted the head anyway - I'm sure it brings good luck!

5 June

Jude had the great idea for us to go on a self guided bike tour of St Emilion, one of the finest wine growing regions in Aquitaine.  We had planned to pick up a picnic lunch from Guillame's, the local bakery, but it turned out that they didn't make up their rolls at 8.15, when we appeared.  We had a pain au raisin to ease the pain then set off.  The traffic to get out of Bordeaux but we made it!  It was a beautiful day and after discussing our route (we opted for the flat and hill one, we could have chosen just flat or mainly hills, but as we didn't have an e-bike route 2 sounded best.  Jude's phone was programmed and off we went.  We stopped into one of the (many!) grand crue wineries we passed and Greg picked up a half bottle of red for dinner that night.  Things seemed to be going well but the GPS was annoyingly not doing the right thing.  It was driving Jude mad.  Greg, who fancies himself a big of a google maps expert, had a go.  No, it still wasn't doing what we wanted.  Eventually we conceded defeat and rang him for assistance.  He said we were not that far (when we returned the bikes we could see the graveyard and church we'd been on the other side of!) and he gave Jude help to get us back on the road.  We stopped at the recommended winery for a refreshing glass of wine.  They have a picnic area where you can eat your food and drink their wine, very civilised.  Heading back towards the hire place Jude thought she'd use google maps instead.  This seemed to be working well until we hit a huge, steep hill.  We all started off gamely but within about 300m had to get off and walk our bikes.  It was so steep that even walking the bikes was really hard.  When we finally got to the top of the hill, it was just a two minute ride to the bike place.  When we told him we'd done that hill he was shocked.  Ï never put that on any of my itineraries, its much too hard".  We could only agree with that!!

After we returned our bikes the owner told us of a secret, quick path into the town - just 10 minutes!  We managed to remember his instructions and walked past an old church and some roman ruins (the repatriation of those ruins obviously a work in progress) and made it into town in plenty of time for our 2.30pm tour of the underground church.  Except unfortunately it was for 2pm and we had missed it!  Jude rang the tourist office and they were very kind and agreed we could do the 3.30pm tour in English instead.  Whew.  To fill in the time we walked up the hill, past the hotel where Jude and Les had stayed on their very first visit to Sainte Emillion, to the old cloister where we were told there was a very nice creamant to try.  And there was!  It was so nice I bought a bottle to  share with Thomas and Marianne.  Then back down for the tour.  The "down" bit was a steep, cobblestoned path, that apparently was used to roll wine barrels down!!  I took it very carefully!  

Our tour guide was very entertaining and very interesting.  She explained that the cave where St Emillion lived, the chapel and the underground church were all privately owned and no photos were allowed.  There was not much to see in the cave, except the huge crowd on the tour, but she explained how St Emillion had a habit of doing a miracle, becoming famous, then moving on to escape his notoriety!  Eventually he settled into his cave, and she pointed out his comfy rock bed and chair (also said to be the place to sit if you wanted a child, you do have to wait 9 months for that miracle though!).  Back up into the bright sun and into the chapel, where I promptly took a photo and was one of many reminded not to!  This was a bakery for many years and the fresco I had naughtily taken a photo of was covered in black soot, which actually preserved it!  It was not uncovered until about 20 years ago.  Back outside (it was quite warm by this time) then down to the underground church.  I was OK in the bigger areas but chose not to go down to the catacombs.  I thought I might use this time to take a few banned photos but no, the light was too dim and another tour group came in just as I was taking out my phone!!  Ah well.  My group came back, and we went into the main part of the church.  The four pillars are supported by huge metal frames - modern art, our guide quipped! - to support them, as the weight of the beautiful bell tower built above ground nearly caused the underground church to collapse.  Luckily this was recognised and the supports were put in place.  Back out into the sunshine, I took photos of some of the wine shops lining the streets.  You can tell what the main business of this town is!!  Jude and I climbed the King's tower (although there is dispute about whether it was built for a king or not), to get some lovely views.  Greg opted to wait.  Those narrow winding stairs are hard work!  Then a brisk stroll back to the car and on the road to Bordeaux!  I had received a message to say there was a one day strike tomorrow, affecting our train journey.  Oh no.  Luckily it looked as if the trip from Bordeaux to Carcassone was still happening...fingers crossed!

We had such a lovely time with Jude and were very taken with Bordeaux, what a great city!